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A SEA OF MEMORIES
All Rights Reserved. 18 – WHEN THE SHIP STOPS….
Since my first sailing, I have always felt that the ship was the ultimate destination, and the ports which it visits were a secondary diversion to the cruise itself. The amount of time spent in each port does not allow the passenger to get any real feel for the island, it’s people, it’s culture or much else.
Suppose a foreign visitor was on a ship which stopped in New York, as a port. The visitor hops a Circle Line boat and takes a tour around Manhattan Island. The tour guide gives detailed descriptions of all the sights they pass; the United Nations building, the Empire State, Washington Heights, Harlem, Grant’s Tomb… The tour ends; the visitor returns to the ship; and, he tells everyone that he has seen America!
OK, it’s a little bit of a stretch, but you get the thought.
I have been fortunate enough to visit quite a few Caribbean islands a number of times, and have become familiar with them. I have probably spent a total of several weeks in Jamaica, Mexico, Grand Cayman, St.Thomas/St. John, St. Maarten and a few others, one day at a time…
In some ports, you need not bother with Shore Excursions. In ports such as Nassau and San Juan, the ships dock right in the center of town and a first-time visitor can easily take a walking tour of the area, covering all of the sights by foot.
I am going to break down this section into two parts. The first will list walking tours, and other non-Shore Excursion trips, you can take. The second is a description of some of my most-remembered Shore Excursions which I felt were well worth the cost. I am not including the “activity” excursions, such as snorkeling, horseback riding, parasailing, and such, because these are quite the same no matter which port they are done in.
JAMAICA
Most of the ships stop at Ocho Rios (Ochie) with a few going to Montego Bay (MoBay).
If you decide to take a ‘walking tour,’ make sure you stay on the main streets, where it is perfectly safe. It is the same in any port, and more essential in others. Ochie and MoBay are two ports where this should be kept in mind. I am sure that there are areas in your town, or city, where you would not feel safe to be on foot.
You will find the locals ‘aggressive,’ as they try to hawk their wares. A big smile and a, “No thanks, mon,” will usually do the trick. The secret is to be polite.
There are several Shore Excursions that I have, particularly, enjoyed.
One of my favorites is river rafting on the Martha Brae, or Rio Grande, Rivers. The thirty foot bamboo rafts hold the Raft Captain, who guides the craft down the slowly moving waters, and one couple. You glide tranquilly past the tropical foliage and native birds, in a setting out of a novel.
If you’re a Bob Marley fan, the tour to Nine Mile, his birth and burial place, is a MUST. The trip to Nine Mile takes about an hour, and the bus (a 1960’s model, with artificial fruit on the roof…) has an audio-visual system that will entertain you with Bob’s music all the way up. Halfway through the journey, the bus pulls over and they serve complimentary soft drinks and Rum Punch.
As you pull up to the gates, and disembark, you are met by a rag-tag group of Rastas, offering the holy ganja for a small donation.
The grounds of the homesite, Mt. Zion, are inspiring to a Marley fan.
On the return, the bus stops for complimentary Jamaican Patties, also included in the price, and when you reach town, a meal of jerk chicken, jerk pork, peas and rice and plantains.
Although I’ve only done it once, and probably wouldn’t repeat it, a favorite memory of mine was walking up Dunn’s River Falls. Every visitor to Jamaica must accomplish this, once. A good first-time Shore Excursion is the town tour/Shaw Park Gardens/Dunn’s River Falls excursion.
COZUMEL
A short, three dollar, taxi ride will take you right to the heart of San Miguel, the island’s only town. A walk through town, with a stop at Carlos and Charley’s, or Senor Frog’s, and a little shopping is the order of the day. One rule: Never (almost) pay the price that is asked. The local merchant’s expect you to barter and are disappointed if you don’t….
My favorite place to go, in Cozumel, is Parqeo Chankanaab, about ten dollars from the dock. Chankanaab is a complex built around Chankanaab Lagoon. It has an archeological park with Mayan, Aztec, Olmec and other pre-Columbian artifacts, all along a path that winds through a ‘tropical jungle.’
There is a beach, where you can rent snorkel gear ($6.00-U.S.) and go snorkeling at one of the best sights in any of the ports, located just a few feet offshore. There’s a botanical garden, and a path around the lagoon from which you can view the reef fish, without even getting your feet wet. Admission is ten bucks, American.
GRAND CAYMAN
This is my least favorite port, and I usually do not do much on the island. As a rule, I take the tender into shore, go to the Tortuga Rum Cake Factory, where I have a slice of Rum Cake and a cup of coffee. A slow walk back to the tender and a return ride to the ship.
One thing I totally enjoyed, in Grand Cayman, and I have done it twice, is the Atlantis Submarine. It travels a hundred feet down the Cayman Wall, and the views are spectacular.
On my first visit, I did take the tour to the Turtle Farm, Hell and Seven Mile Beach. I did not find any of it all that interesting, but I wasn’t bored, either. It was an OK trip.
ST. THOMAS/ST. JOHN
This is one of the islands where I do recommend an island tour. However, I suggest that you skip the ship’s excursion, and wait until you’re in town to book it on your own. There are dozens of sightseeing ‘trucks’ which offer a full tour of the island. They’ll take you to Magen’s Bay, Mountain Top and all the other sights.
Shopping in St. Thomas is not as good as it used to be. In fact, if your ship stops at St. Maarten, also, do your shopping there! If not, you can still find some bargains in St. Thomas. Just remember to stick with the larger stores, such as Columbian Emerald’s International, H. Stern, A.H. Riise, and the ship recommended stores. Many of the smaller shops have been taken over by less-than-scrupulous entrepreneurs.
My usual course of action, when I arrive in St. Thomas, is to grab the ferry to St. John, about twenty minutes away. It is an unspoiled island, two-thirds National Park, which still has the feel of the islands before the invasion of the cruise-ship masses.
SAN JUAN, P.R.
The ship docks right in the heart of the “Old City,” and you canwalk the entire town, from El Morro, the fort that guards the entrance to the harbor, to San Cristobal, the fort at the far end of town. The cobblestone streets are lined with Mediterranean-style houses, all with wrought iron balconies and decorated with live flowering plants.
The Visitor’s Bureau runs a free trolley which tours the town. You can get on, and off, at any of the clearly marked stops.
NASSAU, BAHAMAS
Although, technically, not in the Caribbean Sea, Nassau is a frequent stop for cruise ships. It is another location where you can do a walking tour. The Water Tower, Queen’s Staircase and Fort Fincastle are all located in one locale, a short walk from the ship. A few blocks away is Government House, where, if you are lucky, you may catch the Changing of the Guard. A short hop brings you back to Bay Street, and the shopping. Watch the prices! If you do not know for sure that you are getting a bargain, don’t buy it.
One “fun” thing to do in Nassau is to take a ride on one of the horse-drawn surreys. The ride is only about twenty minutes, which works out to a dollar a minute, but it is a relaxing way to get to see a bit of the town, and its romantic.
If you’re adventurous, go to Bay Street, just near the Straw Market, at George Street, and take the #10 jitney to cable Beach, and the Crystal Palace Casino. The ride is one dollar, and you pay as you exit. Ask the driver to let you know when you reach Crystal Palace, and he will be happy to do so. The hotel is fantastic, and has an indoor shopping mall. There are several nice restaurants that overlook the beach.
AND ALL THE REST…..
It would TAKE, AND HAS TAKEN, entire books to discuss the major Caribbean ports. What I have attempted to do is to give the first-time cruiser a brief overview.
The best advise I can give you is to read about the ports before you get there. In fact, do it before you get on to the ship. Make it part of your cruise planning. There are copious site on the internet, books and magazines, all geared to the island tourist.
Once you decide, in general, what you would like to do, study the shore excursions offered very carefully and make sure the one(s) you choose is exactly what you want. Remember, you only have a few hours in port and you want to enjoy them.
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