If you choose the railroad trip out of Skagway be sure to sit on the left hand side of the train and near the front - the spectacular scenery is on that side and at the back of the car you can't hear the commentary. Some couples split up and try to hog the window seats - you can politely ask them to move if you are sure this is what they are doing. they also pass out free bottles of water but they don't tell you they are free, they just walk down the car and if you don't ask for one you don't get it.
Personally I was disappointed in the rail trip - it is so similar to where we live that there was nothing new. If there is snow on the mountains it is spectacular but there was none when we were there.
I really like the idea of renting a car and driving - that is what we would do next time.
In Vancouver - our grandkids love the Science Center - Granville Island is a delight or you can take the ferry to North vancouver and browse there. If you really like to shop you can take the skytrain out to Burnaby and get off at Metrotown - tons of stores there and right beside the skytrain station.
In Juneau and Ketchican we hopped on the local buses to get around - a lot cheaper than the tours offered and they often go right to the areas of interest - certainly to the totem poles.
Formal nights - men are expected to wear suits and ties but women can wear short or long dresses or pant suits. We have seen some very casual outfits but a man in shorts was told that he had to change.